This page will document the installation of 3 gauges on my
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke.
The first step was to partially remove the rubber seal that
runs alongside the A-pillar.
hold the new pod over the A-pillar and mark the bottom of each gauge location
through the gauge holes with a pencil. Then remove the A-pillar.
This is fairly difficult to do. There are 3 fasteners and a guide pin
holding the pillar in place. Pull the top of the A-pillar down and to the
right gently and pry the 3 fasteners away from the framework. Then use a
little force to continue
Next, the instructions call for drilling three 3/8" holes in the A-pillar where you marked it with a pencil for the wiring and tubing to fit through. I'm not sure why the instructions didn't specify larger holes since the entire A-pillar will be covered by the gauge pod. We had to unwire the pyrometer and tranny temp gauges, stick the wires through the holes and hook them back up to the gauges. It seems it would have been a lot easier to have just drilled larger holes in the first place. Next you need to place the gauge pod over the A-pillar, making sure they are lined up good, and drill four 5/32" holes completely through both of them for the pushpins to hold them together. Some of these holes are circled in the photo below. Don't pin them together yet.
Then install the green bulb covers on each of the bulbs. The bulbs are removed by turning the black fasteners on the backs of the gauges counterclockwise about 1/8th of a turn. The green bulb covers go on a lot easier if you moisten the bulbs a little bit first. Next, run the wires for the pyro & tranny gauges and the tubing for the boost gauge through their respective 3/8" holes in the A-pillar. Run the wire harness for the gauge lights through the bottom 3/8" hole and string it between the pod and A-pillar. Hook up the tubing to the turbo boost gauge with the compression fitting and also the lighting and pyro & tranny gauge wires. It should look like the photo below.
Press fit the gauges into their holes and insert the 4 pushpins to hold the pod and A-pillar together. The metal retainers that came with each gauge aren't necessary to hold them in.
Now it's time to start installing sensors and running wires & tubing. Remove the diamond shaped plug from the firewall. When viewed from inside the cab, it's located several inches above and to the left of where the steering column passes through the firewall. It may be behind a partially cut out piece of foam insulation. Drill a 3/4" hole in it and reinstall it. I added a rubber grommet to protect the wires and tubing.
We'll start with the pyrometer. The pyrometer sensor thread size is 1/4" x 18 NPT (national pipe thread). This sensor goes on the left engine manifold just before the up pipe to the turbo. Start with a smaller bit, like a 1/4" and work your way up to a final drill bit size of 7/16". Keep some grease on the drill bit tips to help collect shavings. After drilling and tapping the hole, use a magnet to try and get the shavings out of the manifold. If your magnet is too big, just hold it beside a drill bit and insert the bit into the hole. It works great. Periodically check to see if the sensor fits during tapping as I've heard it's possible to run the tap in too far making the hole too big. Install the sensor in the hole. Connect the wires on the sensor to the lead wire by sliding a fiberglass sheath (included in kit) on one side, bolting the 2 wires together and then pulling the fiberglass sheath over the connection (which is a tight fit). Do the same for the other color wires.
Next, install the boost pressure T-fitting (included with kit) on the MAP line. This is a 1/4" rubber line with wire loom protecting it that runs from the turbo manifold area to a sensor on a bracket near the air conditioning unit. Just cut some of the wire loom away, cut the rubber hose, install the hose clamps and T-fitting and connect the tubing for the boost gauge with a compression fitting.
OK, time to install the tranny temp sensor. This one is really easy. There is a plug located on the drivers side of the tranny just above the pan flange and just forward of where the electrical connections are hooked up. Just unscrew the plug and install the tranny temp sensor. Only a few drops of tranny fluid came out of the hole when I removed the plug had to run some extra 18 gauge wire from the control unit to the sensor because I wanted to install the control unit inside the cab and the included wire wasn't long enough.
Now the fun part, wiring everything up. I installed the 2 control modules on the firewall inside the cab beneath the steering column. I used self tapping sheet metal screws (not included) and just screwed them into the foam. The instructions said that double sided tape was even an option so I figured the foam insulation would hold them. Notice on the top module (tranny) the 2 wires on the right hand side, yellow and red. These are to connect the module to a power source and the wires, 18 gauge, weren't included in the kit. It's easier to install them before mounting the unit on the firewall. Leave about 18" of wire to work with. The pyro module has power wires attached.
OK, each module has to be hooked up to a ground and a switched ignition source (hot only when the ignition is on). For a ground, I ran the tranny module wire to a grounding point just under the steering wheel above the fuse panel. This is also where I grounded the wire for the gauge lights. For the pyro module I connected to a ground just to the right hand side of the panel you have to remove to get to the fuse panel. Any ground will do. The pyro and tranny hot wires connect to a red wire with a yellow trace on a plug (it might be a relay) mounted just to the right of the fuse panel on the backside of the metal framework that the fuse panel mounts to. I installed an inline 1 amp fuse (not included but recommended in the installation instructions) on the tranny temp hot wire. There is a better picture of this plug at DieselManor's website here.
You can double check before cutting the wire by using a voltmeter. It should read no voltage with the ignition off and just over 12 volts with the ignition on. DieselManor's website recommends pulling your dimmer module to splice into the dimmer switch for the gauge lighting but I think it's easier to just tap into the wire under the dash. Look for the module shown below. I believe the wire is light blue and comes out the backside of the plug. Use a voltmeter to make sure. It should read around 12 volts when the lights are on and the dimmer switch is full bright and should decrease voltage as you rotate the dimmer switch down.
Next connect the control module wires to the sensor wires that go through the firewall and you should be done. A couple of extra nice touches I did were installing a rubber grommet on the diamond shaped plate where the wires and tubing pass through the firewall and installing some wire loom (protective plastic) on the exposed wiring outside the cab. Here's the end result.
If you find any errors or tips that could make this page more helpful, please let me know. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org